I have a goal of adding some of the more modern systems to my console line up (ex got the 360, PS3, and I want to add a PS4), which means a modern TV.which means need to arrange space in the new place for multiple screens. She does agree that it looks and sounds nice. My wife doesn't like the large one, because it giant, heavy etc. we're closing on a house in a few weeks.Īre there any bonuses to the 27" that the 32" doesn't have? I mean it is easier to move and still looks great. would this one also be a true analog television (as in well suited to older systems like Atari on through PS2/XBox)? I know my disc based systems look good, but the bulk of my game collection is boxed up, and in storage. Given that it is non WEGA, I don't see any digital inputs on the back. I think someone upgraded to a newer TV, and didn't want to keep the old one around. Colors are still rich, sound is still nice (though I think the 27" doesn't have the integrated woofer of the 32"). Given that I am using these for older systems. but it still has component in, A/V/composite in, S video, and a spot for RF (which I avoid whenever possible, but will use it if it is all I have). I nabbed a Sony Trinitron (no WEGA logo) KV-27FS100. But, free is the favorite price, so I can easily look past those flaws. Trying to remove it without could damage the cap, and the CRT connection.So, a while back I put up a thread called "I Made Mistakes!" where I had fun detailing how I scored a free Sony KV-32FV310. Incidentally, for anyone else reading this in the future - if you have a similar issue and the device has a control on it, this means that the EHT lead and cap is coaxial, this requires a special tool to remove, which is an SRBP wedge/fork type device that squeezes the outer coaxial connections together to unhook them (we used to have a handful of them sat in a draw at work). Let it set - I would give it overnight, then you should be good to go. This should give you a nice clean hole, with good adhesion - fill this with epoxy resin (5 minute epoxy glue), and fill it proud with a nice dome on the outside. I would then grind the offending area away carefully with a Dremel, as the plastic probably has a carbon track burnt in it, and you need to get rid of that - go as deep as required to get rid of it all, without damaging the component inside the plastic. Then clean the faulty component really well with alcohol, IPA or something similar - then discharge the CRT again (they tend to self recharge - so keep doing so occasionally). The shock from EHT isn't particularly 'dangerous', as it's too low a current - but falling over and breaking your neck as a result is just as fatal. If you remove the cap, then fit a croc clip lead from cap to the aguadag wire/spring to keep that discharged, and do the same with the end of the EHT lead. One to the aquadag, then slide the other across that one and underneath the anode cap - that cap should be a single connection, so no problems. I'd be inclined to try and seal the leak, see if you can cure it that way - first job, make sure the CRT is discharged - standard TV engineer way is two screwdrivers. As I suspected, it's either a discharge resistor, or a high voltage capacitor - the set would work fine without it, but you've then got the issue of what to do with the wires, how to join them, and how to prevent that join arcing.
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